Tuesday, May 1, 2012

camiseta del barcelona 2011

camiseta del barcelona 2011,
Perhaps you're in the same fly casting bind I was in. You often don't have enough room to make back casts, and at your age casting a 7-weight fly rod for three or four hours leaves you exhausted and sore. Spey casting, you read, will save you a lot of energy and ibuprofen. camiseta de Barcelona ,
So, you wonder, should you delve into your pockets and shell out the big bucks for a spey rod and line?
Eventually, I did, and then I immersed myself in spey casting articles and DVDs, until I felt ready to give spey casting a go. camisetas de fĂștbol ,
I headed to my local park, and plunged in―right into an incoming disaster.
I couldn't set up an anchor. My forward casts, therefore, died before they were born. I felt I just needed more practice―a lot more―but instead of relief in sight, I saw blown anchors and stillborn casts.
I didn't need the grief, but I couldn't let go.
Finally, after about two fishing seasons of practicing and experimenting with spey casting techniques, my predicament came to a resolution, and I saw myself as a competent spey caster. So, to spare you a tsunami of frustration, I'd like to share what I learned. camiseta del barcelona 2011 , What follows, however, is not an in-depth analysis of spey casting, but rather a starting point.
SPEY RODS, LINES AND LEADERS: It's vital that we match them to each other, and to our fishing situation. I believe that we should start by choosing the right line. Here are our basic choices: 1. Long-belly lines are, for most anglers, the hardest lines to learn how to cast. Their advantages are they allow us to make long casts, without having to then retrieve much, if any, line―great if we're fishing a wide river and want to pick up and cast as soon as our fly finishes its drift. We will, however, need enough room behind us so that we can form a long D loop. 2. Mid-belly lines are easier and less tiring to cast than long-bellies, so they're a better choice for fishing smaller rivers, especially when we have less room behind us. 3: Skagit lines are short-belly lines that make it easier for us to cast sinking lines and heavy flies. (With a 6/7 Skagit line, for example, we can cast up to about size 2 flies. ) These lines are also great when we have limited casting room behind us. Because these lines are heavy, they're good for casting into a strong wind. Some casters, however, feel that Skagit lines are a bit noisy on the water. Also, we'll often have to retrieve a considerable amount of line after each cast―a plus if we're fishing stillwater. (For short spey rods―11? feet or so―there are now short Skagit lines. ) On the front of a Skagit line we'll have to add a floating or sinking tip and a monofilament or a fluorocarbon leader. We also might have to add a Skagit Cheater. (The longer the spey rod, the longer the cheater. ) 4: Scandinavian lines are light short-belly lines that are quiet on the water, but somewhat limited to casting smaller flies, about a size 6 with a 6/7 line. On the front of a Scandi line we'll have to add, along with monofilament or flourocarbon, a polyleader: 10 foot leaders for rods shorter than 14 feet (most Scandi rods), 15 foot leaders for longer rods.
We can also use polyleaders as part of our overall leaders when we're casting a mid- or long-belly line.
We have to experiment to find what length leaders work for us. Here's some general rules for mid-, long belly and Skagit lines: If we're casting a floating line, our leader―including the tip if we're casting a Skagit line―could be up to about 1. 5 times the length of our spey rod. If, however, we're casting a Scandinavian line, our leader could be up to 2 times the length of our spey rod. If we're casting a sinking-tip line or a heavy fly, our leader could be up to the length of our rod. If our leader is too short our anchor will probably land too far behind us and be too short. If our leader is too long, we'll have trouble lifting the fly off the water during our back swing―more about that later―and our anchor will be too long. An anchor that is too short will not have enough water tension to load our spey rod at the start of our forward cast. An anchor that is too long will have too much tension and grip the spey line. In either case, our cast will be underpowered.
Now that we've chosen our line, we must choose our rod. Some spey casters use the rule of 5, meaning that the length of our spey rod shouldn't be more than 5 times the length of the belly of our line. I, however, prefer a little over 4 times. For example: If my spey rod is 12? feet, the maximum length of the belly will be about 52 feet.
Finally, we must choose a reel. Because spey lines are thicker than traditional fly lines, we must use much larger reels. For my 6/7 Scandinavian line, I use 8/9 large arbor reel. Before buying a reel, I suggest trying on the line.
Now that we've chosen our line, rod and reel, we must turn to the techniques of spey casting. Yes, there are many spey casts: Single Spey, Double Spey, Perry Poke, Snap-T, etc. I believe all of them become, to some extent, dependent on being able to correctly execute a Single Spey (often referred to as a Switch Cast if we're not changing casting directions).
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